Showing posts with label #CalgaryArt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #CalgaryArt. Show all posts

Thursday, September 10, 2026

Easy Eco Resin Skulls


Easy Eco Resin Skulls | One of my favourite molds

Make what you like. If skulls please you, pour skulls. Dragons next. A spoon rest when the idea is ready. The craft is the same: a mold, a mix, and a finish you actually want to look at.

What you need
An eco resin (water-based casting resin — mix to the maker’s ratio), a skull mold, a scale or marked cups, a stir stick, a release if the mold needs it, and a level work tray. Gloves. Paint and sealer only after it is fully cured.

Pour

  1. Clean and dry the mold. Mist or brush release if required. 
  2. Mix the eco resin exactly as the bag or bottle says. Scrape the sides. Do not guess the water. 
  3. Tint in the cup if you want colour through the whole skull, or leave it raw for paint later. 
  4. Pour slowly. Tap the mold to lift bubbles. 
  5. Leave it undisturbed until the cure time is done. Demolding early is how faces tear.

Finish
Sand any seams. The speckled skull with a pink jaw and the pearly one with blue sockets are the same pour in different clothes: dry-brush, inks in the eyes, a wash in the teeth, then a sealer so they can sit on a shelf and not stay tacky.

That is the whole trick. The mold does the anatomy. You do the character.

I have not used the spoon rest mold yet. Same steps when I do: mix, pour, wait, then make it look like something I would keep. Art is not a committee. Pour the skulls. Paint the dragons. Use the rest when the idea shows up.

Monday, August 31, 2026

How to Lighten and Stripe a Dark Purple Eco-Resin Dragon Belly

This little dragon started with a solid dark-purple belly. The finished look is lighter overall, with clean white-to-lavender stripes across the tummy and a bit of shine so it doesn’t look flat. You can do the same change on a painted eco-resin piece without stripping the whole figure.

What you need

  • The painted eco-resin dragon (fully cured)
  • Fine sandpaper (400–600 grit) or a sanding sponge
  • Soft brush or damp cloth to wipe dust
  • Acrylic paints: a pale mauve/lavender, a light magenta or soft white, and a tiny bit of metallic silver if you want the claws/horns to pop
  • Small detail brush and a slightly wider flat brush
  • Water cup and paper towel
  • Optional: acrylic varnish (matte or satin) and a pearl or interference medium if you want the pearly glow from the second photo

Prep Wipe the dragon so it is clean and dry. Lightly scuff only the belly scales you plan to repaint. You are not trying to remove all the old colour—just give the new paint something to hold. Wipe the dust off.

Paint the base of the belly Mix a pale lavender (mauve pale plus a touch of white works well). Paint the whole belly in thin coats. Let each coat dry. Two or three thin coats beat one thick one on resin. Keep the edges neat where the belly meets the sides so you do not have to fix the rest of the dragon.

Add the stripes Once the pale base is dry, use a slightly darker purple or a clean white (depending on how strong you want the contrast). Follow the existing scale lines. A thin flat brush or a liner brush makes this easier. Paint every other scale band, or every second row, so you get even stripes. If a line wobbles, wait until it is dry and tidy it with the pale colour.

Details Touch up the claws and horn tips with a little silver if they look dull. Check the eyes and snout so they still read against the new belly. Let everything dry fully—acrylic on resin can feel dry on top while the layer underneath is still soft.

Seal A thin coat of acrylic varnish protects the new paint and evens the sheen. If you want that pearly, slightly translucent look, mix a drop of pearl medium into the last pale coat or into the varnish. Do not flood the details.

 

Tips that save a redo

  • Thin paint. Thick paint hides scale texture.
  • Work in good light so the stripe edges stay crisp.
  • If you hate a stripe, sand that band lightly and paint it again. Eco-resin can take a gentle scuff.
  • The frog-on-the-toilet in the workbench photo is optional. The dragon is not.

That is the whole change: scuff, pale base, stripes along the scales, seal. The before is the dark solid belly. The after is the striped one sitting on the table with the paint tubes still open.

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