My First Resin Skull: A Glowing Blue Beauty!

I’m thrilled with how this turned out! This translucent blue skull was cast in epoxy resin using a simple skull mold and my homemade “sinker white” pigment. The result has beautiful swirling marbled effects, deep blue tones with lighter highlights, and a glossy, almost gem-like finish. Not too bad for a home experiment, right? The swirling patterns come from the way the white pigment interacts with the coloured resin during the pour and cure. It creates organic, smoky, veined effects that make each piece unique.Quick Rundown: How to Make a Coloured Epoxy Resin Skull with Sinker White

Materials you’ll need: Epoxy resin (deep pour or casting resin works best for thicker pieces like skulls) 
Silicone skull mold 
Mica powder or alcohol ink in your desired colour (I used blue tones here) 
Homemade or store-bought sinker white (a heavier white pigment designed to sink through the resin) 
Mixing cups, stir sticks, gloves, and a well-ventilated workspace 
Optional: heat gun or torch to pop bubbles 
 
Basic Steps:

Prepare your workspace and mix the epoxy resin according to the manufacturer’s instructions (usually 1:1 or 2:1 ratio by volume). 
Divide the mixed resin into separate cups if you want multiple colours or effects. 
Add your colour (mica powder or ink) to one portion and stir thoroughly until evenly distributed. For the blue effect, I tinted the main batch a vibrant translucent blue. 
Make or add your sinker white: This is a heavier white pigment that sinks slowly through the resin instead of staying suspended. You can make a homemade version by mixing a small amount of white pigment powder (or white alcohol ink) with a bit of resin or alcohol until it has a thick, heavy consistency. A little goes a long way! 
Pour the coloured resin into the mold first, filling most of it. Then drizzle or drop small amounts of the sinker white mixture in strategic spots (or swirl it in gently). The white will sink and create beautiful tendrils, blooms, and marbled veins as it moves through the blue resin. 
Tap the mold gently or use a heat gun to remove air bubbles. 

Let it cure fully (usually 24–72 hours depending on your resin and temperature). 
Demold carefully and admire your one-of-a-kind skull! You can sand or polish the surface if needed for extra shine. 
 
Tips for success:Work in thin layers or all at once depending on your mold depth. 
The more sinker white you use and the way you drop it, the more dramatic the swirls become. 
Always follow safety precautions — wear gloves, work in a ventilated area, and protect your surfaces. 
 
This technique is forgiving and endlessly customizable. You can create everything from ghostly whites to vibrant jewel tones. I’m already planning my next colour combo!

What do you think — would you try making one? Drop a comment or tag me if you give it a go! 

How to Make Your Own Sinker White for Resin Art

DIY Additive Using Acetone(Nail Polish Remover), Isopropyl Alcohol & White Pigment Paste

Resin can do amazing things, and sometimes the best additives are the ones you create yourself! Sinker white is a heavier white mixture that helps push alcohol inks or colours down through your resin, creating beautiful sinking blooms and effects (like the vibrant pink-and-white piece shown below).

Here’s the simple formula that worked well for the example in the photo:

What You’ll Need:100% pure acetone (or 100% acetone nail polish remover) 
99%+ Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) 
White pigment paste (resin-compatible) 
Small mixing cups, stir sticks, and droppers 
Gloves, eye protection, and good ventilation 
 
Basic Ratio (start small and test): In a small cup, add a small amount of white pigment paste (start with ½–1 teaspoon). 
Add a few drops of 100% acetone to break down the pigment paste. Stir well until smooth. The acetone helps the paste disperse. 
Top up with isopropyl alcohol (roughly 70% alcohol to 30% acetone ratio overall). Stir thoroughly until fully mixed and pourable. 
 
The exact amounts can vary depending on your pigment thickness and resin viscosity — start small and adjust until you get a milky white liquid that sinks nicely when dropped into resin.

Safety First:Work in a well-ventilated area (acetone and alcohol fumes are strong). 
Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection. 
Never mix large batches at once. Test in small quantities. 
Keep away from open flames — these are flammable. 
Label your container clearly and store in a cool, safe place. 
 
Once mixed, you can drop your homemade sinker white into coloured resin pours to create sinking effects and patterns.  Tomorrow I’ll demold the piece in the photo and we’ll see how this batch turned out — fingers crossed!

Have you tried making your own resin additives? Share your results or tips in the comments.

Stay safe and keep creating! 
Magdelene

How to Not Get Motion Sickness on a Catamaran – Tips from a Real (Unfortunate) Experience

How to Avoid Motion Sickness on a Bouncy Catamaran – Even in Rough Ocean Waters

Look at this happy face! That’s Kass smiling on a catamaran in Alaska’s Kenai Fjords. What you don’t see is how seasick he felt later on that same glacier tour. The bouncy open ocean caught him off guard, but the tour itself was absolutely spectacular — whales, glaciers, and breathtaking scenery.

If you’re planning a similar adventure, don’t let motion sickness steal the joy. 

Here are simple, proven ways to stay comfortable: Take medication early — Use Dramamine, Bonine, or a scopolamine patch the night before or at least an hour before boarding.   
Choose your spot wisely — Stay in the middle of the boat where the motion is gentler. Get fresh air on deck and keep your eyes on the horizon.   
Eat smart — Have a light, non-greasy meal before you go. Ginger candies, ginger ale, or sea bands can help too. Stay hydrated, but skip alcohol and heavy coffee.   
Mind your focus — Avoid reading or staring at your phone. Face forward and breathe deeply. 

Even experienced travellers get surprised by choppy waters, but with a little prep, you can fully enjoy the ride instead of hugging the rail.

 Kass still says the Kenai Fjords tour was worth it — just next time he’ll be better prepared!

Have you ever battled seasickness? Share your best tip below!

Adult Colouring Books My Obsession

Adult Coloring Books: My Obsession, Pro Tips & the Truth About Selling Your Creations

Looking at these two pages — the fierce, fiery dragon with glowing eyes and swirling scales, and the stunning sugar skull woman with flowing rainbow hair, roses, and intricate details — it’s easy to see why adult colouring books have become wildly popular lately. They’re relaxing, creative, and incredibly satisfying.

I’ve always loved colouring, and it remains one of my favourite ways to unwind. The only problem? I also do resin art, crafting, painting, and a dozen other creative things. There simply aren’t enough hours in a day! If I were like Grok and didn’t need sleep, imagine how much more I could create.

What draws me in most is the joy of the process. You start with a blank line drawing and slowly bring it to life with colour choices, blending, and shading. It doesn’t matter if it turns out “perfect” — as long as you’re enjoying it, you’re doing it right. Colouring is gentle exercise for the mind, a stress reliever, and a wonderful creative escape.

My Top Tips & How-Tos:

Use quality supplies: alcohol markers or gel pens for bold, vibrant results; coloured pencils for soft layering and blending. 
Work on thick, single-sided paper to avoid bleed-through. 
Start with light pressure and build colour gradually. 
Experiment with techniques like stippling, hatching, or ombre shading. 
Good lighting and a comfortable spot make all the difference. 
 
A quick note on selling: Thanks to the first-sale doctrine, or in Canada "doctrine of exhaustion", you can usually sell the physical coloured page you created from a book you bought. However, you cannot scan, print, or reproduce copies for sale because the original line art is copyrighted. Always enjoy them first for the fun of it!

Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned colourist, grab a book, pick up some markers, and let yourself play. The most important rule? Have fun. That’s what art is all about.

 

How to Make a Beautiful Epoxy Resin Dragon

How to Make a Beautiful Epoxy Resin Dragon – Embedding Stones & Mica Powder with Let’s Resin

I recently created this stunning translucent blue dragon using Let’s Resin epoxy, and I’m thrilled with the results! I experimented by embedding smooth glass stones inside—some clear, some with blue tones, and one with a warm amber glow. The outcome has real depth and sparkle, and I can’t wait to make more!

What You’ll Need: A Resin epoxy kit 
Silicone dragon mold 
Mica powder (blue & purple) 
Smooth glass stones/cabochons 
Optional: resin dyes or alcohol inks 
Mixing cups, stir sticks, gloves 
 
Step-by-Step Guide: Clean your silicone mold thoroughly. 
Brush dry mica powder directly onto the inner mold surfaces where you want concentrated colour (body and spikes). I used a different shade for the eyes so they pop. 
Place your glass stones inside the mold for beautiful embedded effects. 
Mix the resin according to instructions (you can lightly tint the batch if desired). 
Pour slowly, tap out bubbles, and let cure 24–48 hours. 
 
Resin Creativity Tips:
You can embed almost anything dry and non-porous—glass stones, crystals, dried flowers, glitter, or small charms. For colouring, brush mica powder into the mold (like I did), mix in resin dyes for solid hues, add alcohol ink drops for swirls, or paint details after curing. Endless possibilities!

This fun experiment turned out better than expected. Give it a try—it’s easier than it looks and the results are magical!

I am going to be doing some follow up painting on this dragon piece, as in I will paint his toenails and likely his spikes as well, the tips. I just demolded him this morning, so I'm going to let him sit for a couple days or so before I do anything more to this cute little dragon piece.
 

How-To: Easy ResinCrete Skull Casting

How-To: Easy ResinCrete Skull Casting – Add Colour, Sparkles & More!

Yesterday I mixed up a batch of ResinCrete and cast this cool two-tone skull – and I’m hooked! It’s way less smelly than traditional epoxy resin, sets fast, and you can customize it with colours, glitter, marbles, or anything else you want to embed. Perfect for beginners!

What You’ll Need: ResinCrete powder & water (follow package ratios) 
Silicone skull mold (or any shape you like) 
Liquid or powder pigments for colour 
Glitter/sparkles 
Small marbles or trinkets (for future projects) 
Mixing cup, stir stick, and gloves 
 
How to Pour ResinCrete – Step by Step

Prep your mold: Lightly spray with mold release if needed and set it level. 
Mix the ResinCrete: Combine powder and water exactly as directed until smooth (about 1-2 minutes). 
Add colour & sparkle: Stir in pigment until you love the shade, then swirl in glitter. For layered looks like mine, mix two batches (light blue top, white bottom). 
Pour slowly: Fill the mold, tapping gently on the table to release air bubbles. 
Add embeds (optional): Drop in marbles or small objects now – they’ll stay suspended as it hardens. 
Cure: Let it sit undisturbed for 1-2 hours (full strength in 24 hours). Demold and admire! 
 
ResinCrete is forgiving, low-odour, and beginner-friendly. Next I’m trying an epoxy resin skull with deep red tint, hidden marbles inside, and tons of extra sparkles for that wow factor.

This technique works for coasters, garden statues, or jewellery too – endless possibilities! Have you tried ResinCrete yet? Drop your creations in the comments – I’d love to see them!

The Ephemeral Art of Ice Sculpting

Ice sculpting, a captivating blend of skill and transience, transforms frozen water into stunning masterpieces that melt away with time. Captured in photos from events like Light Up Okotoks 2024, where live carvings drew crowds amid twinkling lights and snowy streets, this art form dazzles with its glowing, intricate designs—such as the blue-lit fish and abstract forms seen in your image, with the sculptor kneeling amid tools and tents.

Rooted in ancient history, ice harvesting dates back to 600 B.C. in China, where blocks were cut for preservation. By the 1600s, Chinese fishermen crafted ice lanterns, evolving into elaborate festivals like Harbin's International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival. In 1740, Russia's Empress Anna Ivanovna commissioned a whimsical ice palace for a wedding prank, showcasing early ornate works. The 19th century saw mechanical refrigeration boost the craft, with culinary pioneers like Auguste Escoffier using ice swans for presentations in 1892. History of Ice Carving

Modern techniques begin with crystal-clear ice blocks, often manufactured using ammonia or brine for clarity. Sculptors sketch designs, then wield chainsaws for rough shaping, followed by chisels, die grinders, and even CNC machines for precision. Power tools, popularized in the 1980s by innovators like Mark Daukas, speed the process. A simple piece might take 10 minutes, but detailed sculptures often require a day or more, demanding patience amid melting risks—broken parts can be "welded" back with water.

Like a fascination with mainstream art, ice sculpting rewards persistence, turning fleeting ice into timeless inspiration. Events like Okotoks' live demos highlight its communal joy, proving art's beauty lies in the process as much as the product.

icesculptingtools.com